Georgia, The Country

Georgia. I did a lot of research before going here. My original intent was to move to this small country of four million people, mainly because I could stay for one year without going through the hassle of obtaining a special visa. Obviously, this country has figured out the benefit of foreign money. What I read told me: there were a lot of Expats in the capital, 85% of the population speaks English, the people were very friendly, and the food was delicious, even for people with dietary restrictions (like me). 

I joined a Georgia Expat FB page and quickly learned that a lot of this was propaganda. I only had nine days there so I didn’t have time to do in-depth research into these statistics but I can tell you that, in that short of time, I can confirm that 85% of the population does not speak English! Many people in the tourist industry do, i.e. restaurants and most shops. However, when I was seeking help at the subway station, the security guard sought help from many people passing by and none of them spoke English. In fact, I was told by one that I was in Georgia. They speak Kartvelian. And they weren’t even nice when they said that. I’m sure they know that their language is one of the most difficult languages in the world to learn, so the arrogance in their attitude took me aback. Georgia is the 51st country I’ve been to and every country I engage with I do it with the utmost respect. I understand that I am a foreigner. 

What I fell in love with about this country before ever setting foot in it, was that it had mountains, rivers, lakes, and it was so green! After just a few days in the capital, Tbilisi, I was pretty certain this would jump to number two on my list of favorite countries. The capital is wonderful with its mix of old and new architecture, the food was amazing, and the drinking water rivaled Portland’s water, which is some of the best in the world, IMO. It has good wine, too. Unfortunately, the stats were wrong. I found little evidence of “all those people” that were reportedly “so nice.” While most were fine, the reality didn’t meet the expectations. The resemblance to Peru and Nepal got stronger with every experience. 

The taxi drivers were awful! So aggressive! And lying cons on top of it. I literally yelled at one at the airport when he wouldn’t leave me alone after five times of telling him, “NO!” The Bolt drivers aren’t much better although a fraction of the cost. Based on his crazy driving, I’m pretty sure my first driver was drunk. He also offered me some chacha, the Georgian hooch, that he had in a flask. It invoked flashbacks to the horrid experience on the bus in Chili, so I declined. The second Bolt driver was 20 minutes late picking me up because he went to the wrong location, his car reeked of smoke, and he had the gall to charge me a wait fee (which I didn’t pay)! Fortunately, a complaint to people in the app gave me a credit for my next trip. That guy was fine but he showed up in a car without a front bumper. Apparently, there’s a demand for them so locals sell them for money. 

I only had nine days in the country, which isn’t a lot considering how much stuff there is to do, especially if you’re an outdoorsy kind of person. I made a day trip to Mtskheta, 20km from Tbilisi and the town that I had planned to live in, had I actually moved to Georgia. It was very small but absolutely lovely. I could have lived there easily! But how can you be in a country like this and not get a good hike in? There was a four-day trek that other travelers talked about so after a few days I moved on to the Svaneti region in the Caucasus mountains, NW of the Tbilisi. It was a six-hour train ride and a four-hour minibus ride to get to Mestia where the trailhead was accessed. 

For the sake of brevity, I did the four-day hike in two. Not because I’m a super hiker, but because I’d become ill and couldn’t continue. After the second day I had to hitchhike back to Mestia.  It was a lovely walk along the river the entire way; lower elevation and flat. I walked for hours before a vehicle came by. I put out my thumb and he was kind enough to stop. There’s really only one destination in that direction on that road, so to ask if he was going to the same place was more of a courtesy than a curiosity. There were two Israelis in the back who were also hitching their way back to Mestia. Apparently, I was the only American that they’d met. 

By the time I got back to civilization, I was full-on ill. No fever but the head cold and congestion were unbearable. I’m sure it colored the rest of my experience. I was done with cold rooms and uncomfortable beds. I was fed up with the smoking and willful refusal to speak English. I know this because, when pressed, they’d actually try, and succeed, in communicating. I felt irritated with everyone and everything. Was this because I didn’t feel well? Was it due to the change of life that I was going through? Or, was it just because I was done traveling like a nomad as I did for five years? 

TBH, I think it’s the last. I’m done living like I’m someone 20 years younger than I am. I want creature comforts. As much as I hate to admit it, I’ve been Americanized. I require a certain level of creature comforts. While the things I love most when I travel are the differences, I’m over it.  I want a good bed, I want comfortable travel. At the same time, I want the amazing water that is found throughout Europe, the socialized healthcare system, low prices, affordable farmers markets, and realistically priced housing. 

I realize that there is no Shangri-la. Every place has its own failings. The question of superiority is always based on personal pros and cons. For me, not being able to speak the language, so I can’t understand the politicians, is a pro. Nothing stresses me out more than listening to the blather of “leaders” who have the power to make decisions that affect our personal lives but are on the take. In the USA that looks like lobbyists. 

In sum, I’d love to go back to Georgia with an empty suitcase. Three weeks is minimum to spend as there’s so much to see and do in this incredible country. From there I’d visit Armenia, Iran, Lebanon, and Turkey. It’s not a region to be seen as a tourist but as a traveler. By people without time constraints or haughty demands yet with the means to bring home all the beautiful souvenirs of their visits.